We sat down with Masaki Sugisaki, the Executive Chef at Chelsea's gorgeous Dinings SW3 to discuss his sustainable seafood series Gill To Tail, and his mission to improve the way we source, prepare, and eat our fish.
So Masaki-san, how would you define your personal style in the kitchen, and how much is Dinings SW3 a reflection of that character?
That's something I'm still discovering. Naturally, being Japanese and having grown up in a Japanese kitchen, I aim for Japanese standards in the restaurant. But that also requires a lot of Japanese mentality, which is quite different from what exists here in London. Everybody's background is so different, and so diverse. So, I'm trying to build a universal language while sharing aspects of Japanese mentality. What I'm doing isn't purely Japanese, but people that come to my restaurant learn Japanese standards. It's a kind of fusion. It's still strict, but also more relaxed.
You’ve mentioned before that when you first arrived in the UK, you were surprised by the lack of quality and understanding of Japanese cuisine. How have you approached introducing authentic culinary concepts and ingredients to an audience that may not be familiar with them?
At the beginning, I struggled to express my Japanese knowledge and experience in a way that resonated with different types of guests. But when I worked at Nobu in 2005, it was an eye-opening experience. Chef Nobu had managed to translate all the Japanese standards without changing their foundation. He adapted the names, the presentation, and even some flavour combinations to align with European expectations - and that created the 'wow' factor for people. That's a lesson I've carried with me.
About 60% of what we do at Dinings is grounded in genuine Japanese concepts. The remaining 40% comes from what I've learned from European cuisine. I adapt Japanese cooking to a context that people here can understand. For instance, Italian cuisine shares a similar focus on simple, high-quality ingredients, while French cuisine influences the way I structure and present dishes.
So that's the process. It took me a long, long time to get to this idea. And still now, I think I'm trying to push that. It's a work in progress, for sure.
Your Gill To Tail series is a fantastic way to promote more sustainable eating habits. What inspired you to create this series, and why is this concept so important to you?
Honestly, it started out of frustration. I was struggling to source high-quality fresh fish in this country, and it felt beyond my control - you take what the market or suppliers offer. But Japanese cuisine is all about the ingredients, so I knew I couldn't grow any further without solving this problem. Then I realised, this is an island surrounded by rich waters. Surely, we must have excellent seafood here.
That led me to Cornwall. I'd never been before, but I started asking around, looking for a proper fishing port. Eventually, I arrived in Falmouth, where I met local fishermen and got to know a lot of them. I learned a lot about their trade, and I discovered that many of them practise sustainable methods to protect future fish populations.
These small-boat fishermen take on a lot of risk, but the system isn't fair to them. Their catch often sells for a fraction of its market value and most of it is exported to France, only to be reimported back to London. That didn't make sense to me, it's ridiculous. So I began working directly with the fishermen, paying them more and handling the logistics to bring their catch straight to my restaurant.
It wasn't easy but eventually we built a system that works. Over the years, I've taught them Japanese methods like ikejime (a humane fish-killing technique) to improve quality. Now, I even introduce them to other chefs in London because this is something everyone should be able to enjoy.
Along the way, I also learned how tough a fisherman's life is. Large foreign vessels trawl the seabed, destroying natural habitats that can take decades to recover. Sustainable fishermen can't compete with that, especially when those big operations set the market price. By supporting local, sustainable methods, we're protecting the environment while ensuring these skilled fishermen can survive.
Masaki uses our Carving Knife to cut tuna
Given the unpredictable nature of sourcing fresh seafood, how do you plan menus for your guest chef series?
It all starts with communication. We maintain close contact with our fishermen through WhatsApp. For each event, we let them know what we are hoping to source and ask them to update us a few days beforehand. Weather and sea conditions play a huge role of course. Even if a species is in season, strong winds can prevent fishing altogether.
Flexibility is key. We have a general idea of what will be available, but the final menu often evolves on the day of the event based on what arrives. It is a collaborative process, and our ability to adapt allows us to showcase the best of what the sea has to offer.
What are your favourite underrepresented fish or seafood cuts that you think we should be using more of?
Honestly, most species caught in British waters are under appreciated. The most common options are things like processed mackerel, cod, pollock, and salmon. But we have amazing local produce - beautiful langoustines, brown crabs - yet people still go for imported frozen tiger prawns.
The issue is awareness. When I first started working in London, people would be surprised if I served raw fish. Now, diners are much more adventurous and open to trying new things. It's up to us as chefs to present these underused ingredients in ways that excite and educate our guests.
For example, lobster fishermen often catch bycatch like octopus or conger eel, which they see as a loss because it disrupts their main catch. But if we can utilise that bycatch, everyone wins. It's all about how you present it.
And are there any particular cooking techniques that you're really enjoying at the moment?
Right now, I am so into extracting collagen from fish. Collagen acts as a natural emulsifier, similar to egg yolk in mayonnaise, and it can be derived from fish skin and bones.
When it comes to meat, we make use of every part. Scraps become mince for burgers, for instance. But with fish, most people discard what's left on the bones. That is unnecessary waste. We scrape off every bit of flesh and use the bones to extract collagen. If you extract the collagen slowly, it's a perfect, very useful liquid - you can add extra virgin olive oil or yuzu juice, for instance, with a touch of whatever the flavour or seasoning you want, and that's going to be a nice, creamy sauce. It adds richness and texture to dishes while reducing food waste.
By exploring techniques like these, we not only honour the whole fish but also create new possibilities in the kitchen. It is an exciting area to explore, and there is still so much to discover.
As Executive Chef, you must have an incredibly busy schedule. What does a typical day look like for you?
In one word: hectic. But I am grateful for my upbringing in a restaurant family in Japan. My parents were so strict and instilled in me a strong work ethic. From my teenage years, I was expected to work in the kitchen after school, starting with washing dishes while my friends were out having fun.
They were teaching me, 'this is going to be your business. And you need to know everything outside of that. So everything you do, you need to know why you are doing it, and what is the best way to do it'. It was really tough but I'm actually lucky. Because now, I know how to push myself. And as you push, you improve more, which brings more success.
Those early experiences taught me that everything we do has a reason, and to succeed, you must constantly push yourself. In this industry, failure is not an option for my team. I don't want any of them to fail. So I push them hard during service preparation, but once we are ready, we switch gears and enjoy the process. It is all about balance.
How do you and your team bring the concept of omotenashi to life at Dinings SW3 and at the events you do?
For Japanese people, omotenashi is the foundation of hospitality. It’s as simple as this: imagine inviting your best friends or family to your home and cooking for them. You want to do your best. You want to make them happy. That’s the essence of omotenashi.
When people hear the word, it might sound mysterious or complicated, but for us, it’s completely natural. That’s exactly how I explain it to my staff.
It starts from the very beginning. The moment we receive ingredients from a supplier or a fisherman. If you’re cooking for someone you care about, you’re going to be thoughtful about every detail. You wouldn’t use a half-wilted cabbage; you’d choose the freshest, best-looking one. This mindset carries through every step, from preparation to plating, even to the timing of when a dish is served. If you truly care, you’ll do your best. And to me, that’s the real skill of a chef. Knife skills? That’s just mechanics, I don’t focus on that. What matters most is the heart you put into your work. Even if your technical skills aren’t perfect, if you have that genuine intention to make people happy, they’ll feel it, and they’ll appreciate it. That’s the mindset I try to instil in all my staff.
When I trained in my parents’ restaurant, I wasn’t just learning to be a chef. I also had to understand the front-of-house experience. During my training, I was taught to pay attention to the smallest details. For instance, if a guest is drinking tea, you don’t wait for them to ask for a refill. You watch the angle of their cup. If they’re still sipping comfortably, there’s plenty left. But if they start tipping the cup higher, it means it’s almost empty. You should approach the table before they even think to raise their hand. It’s all about anticipating their needs.
Is there anyone in the industry right now who's really inspiring you? Maybe a particular chef or movement?
At the moment, it's probably a chef - actually, a very good friend of mine now - named Valentine Warner. He's an old-school chef like me, but his deep connection to nature-based cooking really resonates with me. I love how his approach is grounded in the natural world.
In a way, it's similar to Japanese cooking. Both are simple and rooted in nature, but his style has a modern twist. When I first saw how he worked, I thought, 'this is it'. It's so honest and comforting, the kind of food that truly nourishes you.
Living in a busy city like London, tasting his food or watching him cook in the middle of a forest or by the seaside feels like an escape. That sense of authenticity and connection to the environment is eye-opening. I definitely want to collaborate with him in the future.
And finally, what are your hopes for Dinings? Do you see it expanding to new locations, or are you focused on developing further here?
I’d love to explore different cultures. Being Japanese and working in the UK has expanded my horizons in ways I never could have imagined if I’d stayed in Japan and taken over my family’s business. Experiencing new places opens doors and gives me perspectives that only someone with my background can bring.
If opportunities arise, I’d love to go further. That’s why we do so many pop-ups. They let us travel, engage with local markets, and understand what people really want. Each time, we gather that knowledge and reflect on how to respond to local demands.
It’s a challenge, but I love the process of figuring out how to make things work in new environments. It keeps everything fresh and exciting.
To hear more from Masaki, follow his Instagram or book a table at Dinings SW3 here.