Despite its titular subject, this article is not at all to do with horticulture. To make sure we start on even footing: we’re not talking about the shrub (woody plant), but the shrub (beverage). The latter is much more refreshing than its bushy alter ego, and you’ll receive far fewer concerning looks when trying to consume it.
Shrubs are a delicious way of preserving a glut of excess produce, making the most of the wealth that the seasons grace us with year-on-year. The following is a guide covering what they are and how to make them, plus four seasonal versions we adore.
What is a shrub?
Shrubs are a fruit preserve, previously used as a scurvy-supressing medicinal drink aboard the sea vessels of the 17th century. They were embraced by the public during the American Prohibition and are mostly used today in cocktail bars. Consider the shrub an older, tangier cousin to the cordial that mixes naturally with drinks but brings a zing and depth to deserts and vinaigrettes, too.
Broken down into a simple formula, shrubs are made of three components: sweet, acid, and fruit in a 1:1:2 ratio. Generally, the sweet element is sugar (white, brown, cane, etc.) and the acid is vinegar (white wine, apple cider, balsamic, etc.). Once made, they’ll store for up to six months in the refrigerator – if you can keep your hands off them for that long.
How to make a shrub
Chop your fruit into small chunks using a Utility Knife, and add them to a sterilised container. Pour in your sugar and mix it together with your hands to start the maceration process. If you’re using harder fruits such as pears or apples, try grating them instead to ensure as much of the flesh touches the sugar possible. If you’re using a citrus fruit, zest it into the bowl before chopping it up for maximum flavour. Once mixed and massaged, seal the container with a lid or clingfilm and leave it on the counter for 48 hours, stirring it up to four times each day.
After two days of patience, you’ll notice an abundance of a rich, syrupy liquid in the container. Pass the mixture through a cheese cloth or a fine sieve to separate the juice from the solids – keep the fruit, it’s a mouth-watering addition to any cheesecake – and pour the liquid into a sterilised bottle. Add your acid in parts and combine with a spoon, making sure to taste as you go until you reach your desired level of tang.
Shrubs are best served with sparkling water and ice. Bright, bubbly, and seriously tasty. And to answer your question: yes, spirits pair exceptionally well with them too.
A call to consider and experiment
When making your shrub, think about the relationships between the fruit, sweet, and acid. The ingredients are mingling in polite conversation, and should therefore be complimentary, bringing out the best sides of each other. For example, if you’re using a particularly sweet peach variety, emphasise its warmth with a deeper or more caramelly sugar such as demerara, then brighten it up with a lighter acid like white wine vinegar. Think of it like flavour pairing when conjuring up a sauce.
We wholeheartedly encourage you to get creative and experiment. Your sweet component doesn’t strictly need to be sugar – why not try maple syrup or honey instead? You don’t even have to limit yourself to fruits: cucumbers, beetroot or tomato also make for excellent shrub bases, especially when enhanced with a few herbs.
To conclude
What better way to honour the seasons than drinking them in? Below are four recipe suggestions based on the produce of spring, summer, autumn, and winter. Happy sipping.
Spring. Rhubarb and lemon shrub with white wine vinegar and white sugar. Use a 3:1 ratio of rhubarb to lemon. Grate the rhubarb and zest the lemon for a bolder flavour.
Summer. Strawberry and basil shrub with white balsamic vinegar and maple syrup. Don’t be afraid to crush the strawberries and basil leaves with your hands when combining with the maple syrup.
Autumn. Blackberry and black pepper shrub with 1:2 balsamic vinegar to apple cider vinegar and brown sugar. Crush the blackberries with your hands and strain the mash with a cheese cloth to catch all the ground peppercorns. Milder green peppercorns work marvellously too.
Winter. A fiery pumpkin, ginger, and scotch bonnet shrub with apple cider vinegar and demerara sugar. Grate the pumpkin and make sure you wear gloves when incorporating the ingredients with your hands.