Tucked away on the edge of London Fields, Behind blends into East London’s buzzing dining scene, giving little away from the outside. Step inside and the secrecy vanishes. This is dining stripped bare, with an open kitchen where transparency, interaction and uncompromising quality take centre stage. The vision belongs to chef-proprietor Andy Beynon. We sat down with him to talk Michelin stardom, modern fine dining and why an open pass matters.
For most chefs, memories of 2021 stir up dread. With Covid wreaking havoc on hospitality, few moments seemed worse to open a restaurant than the end of 2020. But that’s exactly what Andy Beynon did. “I always wanted my own place but had no idea when. Covid actually pushed me to start while restaurants were closed,” he says.
With closures giving him leverage on rent and access to out-of-work builders, Andy moved fast. He designed the space himself and opened as the first lockdown lifted. “To be honest, Covid kind of helped me. I could get some amazing jobs done.”
Behind launched to a warm reception, with loyal fans and generous supporters from the start. But after just ten days, the second lockdown hit. “It was proper stop and start,” Andy says. “But we had a really good crowd, and we were fully booked every service.”
He used the forced break to reflect, gather feedback and fine-tune the details. Another ten days of service followed before the third lockdown closed the doors again. That was enough time for Michelin inspectors to visit. In an industry first, Behind earned a star after just 20 days of service. “That recognition was incredibly rewarding. It validated what we’re trying to do. A Michelin star is like a stamp of approval. We’re being taken seriously now.”
While awards matter — Behind has kept its star every year since — Andy is focused on integrity. The goal is to grow and push to the next level by staying true to what they do best. A second star would be welcome, but never at the cost of authenticity.
That authenticity gives the restaurant its name. Behind is a nod to the open-kitchen concept, offering guests a glimpse behind the scenes of a fine dining kitchen. The idea was simple. Guests who choose a tasting menu, where the chef sets the meal, are naturally curious about the process. “Everyone who comes here is so into their food. They’re far more interested in what’s happening behind the scenes. We’ve got a captive audience of proper foodies,” Andy says.
The setup — a shared U-shaped table facing the kitchen — turns dining into a theatrical, interactive experience. For Andy, it’s a deliberate break from fine dining’s more distant traditions, where chefs are often hidden. “I remember when I started out, chefs were basically shut away. Probably because you’re so overworked and tired as well.” At Behind, conversation flows easily between chefs and guests, adding depth to the experience and showing that the team gets proper rest.
That closeness can be both exhilarating and draining. When diners are engaged, their energy lifts the room. But not every night is easy. Some guests stay quiet. Others bring drama, leaving chefs to present dishes between a couple’s spat. The team knows when to engage and when to step back.
Seafood is at the heart of Behind’s tasting menu, changing daily with the morning’s catch. Andy sees seafood as a way to unlock fresher flavours, more creativity and a broader range of ingredients that guests might not know. Growing up in the city, he noticed how seafood felt out of reach for many — either unfamiliar or too expensive. This pushed him to collaborate with coastal chefs, especially in the Algarve, to learn how they source and prepare it. His dishes rely on natural seasoning, using carabinero prawn heads, crab reductions and other elements to build depth of flavour without conventional salts or sulphates.
Andy works only with suppliers who own their boats, ensuring the freshest catch. “I only work with day boat suppliers. They catch it, tell us what they’ve got that morning, and deliver it the same day,” he explains. “Sometimes we don’t know what’s coming until it arrives, so we adapt the menu. But it’s always ten out of ten.” The result is a menu that evolves daily, shaped by the seasons and the sea.